tuning your DNA


Some figures for the set-up:
  • Toospore rudders 2-3 mm (measure rudders fore and aft at transom level)(always check after reception of the boat).
  • Rudder raked under the boat: no more than 15 mm (factory settings can be slightly more)
  • Toe-in daggerboards 3-5 mm (difference fore aft daggerboards) (= standard factory settings)
  • Daggerboard J  or C board  slider: 1 cm space to the back end (standard setting) for more lift move daggerboard more aft, for less lift move daggerboard forward. Just untighten the screws lightly and use the board as a lever to change the position of the slider
  • Mastrake: just behind the hatch in light winds, on the transom in medium winds, halfway the transom in stronger winds. (Procedure; keep trapezeline on the deck at the fore stay and see where it touches the hull aft). If you adjust mastrake you might have to adjust sheetlength too.
  • Polish daggerboards and rudders with grid 600 and then 1000 or 1200. Especially the finish of the daggerboard has a huge impact on the performance.  New boards are not polished yet.
Tuning:
  • Upwind: traveller always in the middle, reduce mastrotation when the wind picks up.
  • Downwind: Traveller on hiking strap when doing the wild thing, mast rotation 80-90 degrees
  • Do not oversheet while doing the wildthing
  • Keep daggerboards down will doing the wildthing, pull the weather daggerboard up in marginal wildthing conditions. In the mild thing or while going flat pull both daggerboards halfway up. 
  • In strong winds put the boards up 10 cm.
  • Position yourself between the side stay and the daggerboard case when you are going upwind. Only step back when the boat is on full speed. Hike before the sidestay in light conditions (see pics Stevie at the Worlds in Cesenatico). Many sailors stand to far back when going upwind especially just after a tack. (Keep fat bottom out of the water)
  • Use surf wax on the trampoline to enhance grip in tacks and gybes.
  • Use toestraps if you want to trapeze downwind. You do not need these in the lighter circumstances but if the wind picks up your will suffer from less fatigue.
  • If you can trapeze downwind some cunningham may result in higher endspeeds and more control.
  • If  you cannot keep the bow up downwind come out of the trapeze, release the traveller a bit and steer for depth. Less mast rotation may improve control but hurts speed as well if wind is not stable.
  • Ask your sailmaker for the right amount of spreaderrake and the right amount of diamond tension. Use a loose gauge to measure the tension.
  • If you go from the windward mark to the offset mark do not step back and keep yourself positioned at the daggerboard case to prevent aggressive bow ups.
  • If you sail a long distance race reduce the amount of lift by moving the slider .6 cms forward.
  • Put your daggerboards in the trampoline bag before going ashore, else a board may wash off the boat and may sink.
  • Do not make jumps on purpose with the boat while reaching This might damage the boards.
Maintenance:
  • Keep your hulls clean. Wash the boat with water after sailing on saltwater. Transport it either in a box or use lycra covers.
  • Teflon wax sealer can be applied on both the hulls and daggerboards for less friction.
  • Put water on your daggerboards before you put these in daggerboard cases. Do not hang a daggerboard in the water if you are already sailing as it can be swept out of your hands.
  • Keep the screws on the pushrods of the rudders tight else the pushrod pin might rotate.
  • Check the knot in the daggerboard rope regularly as  the daggerboards might sink if it comes loose.
  • Drill a 2 mm in the hatch covers to let air out in case of heating by the sun.
  • Do not drill holes in the beams as the beams are watertight and part of the positive safety buoyancy.
  • Do not use aceton on the paint to remove glue or stickers but use spiritus/alcohol instead.
  • Clean travellercar with clean water.
  • Check trapeze ropes regularly



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